Kitchen Plumbing Remodeling in Chicago, IL

Most homeowners underestimate the plumbing scope in a kitchen remodel. Here's the full list of what a licensed plumber handles.

Water Supply (Rough-In)

• Hot and cold supply lines to the main sink (3/8" or 1/2" copper or PEX)
• Prep sink or bar sink supply lines (if added)
• Refrigerator water line for ice maker and filtered water dispenser
• Dishwasher supply (dedicated 3/8" line with its own shut-off)
• Pot filler supply (wall-mounted cold line to the stove location)
• Instant hot water dispenser (under-sink 110V unit with cold supply)
• Under-sink water filtration (carbon or reverse-osmosis)
• Shut-off valves at every supply connection per Chicago code

Drainage and Venting

• Kitchen sink drain with disposal-ready tail piece
• Dishwasher drain with required air gap (Illinois code)
• Prep sink drain tied into the main drain with proper slope
• Island venting solution — air admittance valve (AAV) or vent loop to existing stack
• Proper trap venting to prevent siphoning

Gas Piping

• Gas line to range or cooktop — 1/2" steel minimum for most residential; 3/4" or 1" for commercial-style ranges (Wolf, Viking, Thermador with 50,000+ BTU burners)
• Gas line upsizing if existing line is undersized for new appliance
• Shutoff valve within 6 feet of the appliance per code
• Flexible connector rated for the appliance
• Leak test mandatory before inspection

Appliance Connections

• Garbage disposal — direct-wire or plug-in; mounted to the sink drain with proper splash guard
• Dishwasher — supply, drain with air gap, power tie-in to disposal or direct
• Refrigerator ice maker — tapped into cold water with proper line (typically 1/4" copper or braided)
• Commercial-style range — gas line sized to peak BTU demand
• Wine cooler, beverage center — sometimes requires drainage connection

Coordination With Other Trades

• Cabinet installer — supply and drain must align with cabinet cutouts
• Countertop fabricator — undermount sink placement, pot filler rough-in height
• Electrician — dishwasher and disposal circuits, under-cabinet lighting interference
• HVAC — duct routing around plumbing in ceiling and floor cavities
• Tile setter / backsplash installer — rough-in heights for water dispenser, pot filler

If your remodel includes an island with a sink or prep sink, the plumbing becomes significantly more complex. Here's why and how we handle it.

The Venting Problem

Every drain fixture needs a vent to prevent siphoning the trap seal. For a wall-mounted sink, the vent tees off the drain and runs up the wall to the main vent stack — simple and code-compliant. For an island sink, there's no wall to run a vent through, so we need one of these solutions:

Solution 1: Air Admittance Valve (AAV)

• Mechanical one-way valve that opens to admit air when water drains, then closes to prevent sewer gas
• Installed under the sink in an accessible location
• Allowed by Illinois Plumbing Code (77 Ill. Adm. Code 890) with proper sizing
• Simplest and cheapest solution — typical cost $100 – $250 for the device plus installation
• Service life: 10 – 20 years; replaceable when worn

Solution 2: Vent Loop (Loop Vent)

• Drain pipe rises high within the island before dropping back down
• Connects to a vent that runs through the floor to tie into the main vent stack
• More complex to install — requires either running vent under the subfloor (if there's basement access) or through a creative routing
• Generally preferred by purists and in older code jurisdictions that don't allow AAVs
• Cost adds $400 – $900 vs. AAV solution

Solution 3: Separate Vent Stack

• A dedicated vent stack penetrates the roof from the island
• Requires running vent through the ceiling and roof
• Most expensive and disruptive, usually only done in new construction
• Cost adds $1,200 – $2,500

Our Recommendation

For most Chicago remodels, we use an AAV under the island sink — it's code-compliant, cost-effective, and works reliably for 10+ years. For new construction or high-end builds where the homeowner wants zero mechanical components, we run a vent loop through the basement to tie into the main stack.

Drain Routing

Island drains typically drop through the floor into the basement or crawl space, then run horizontally to tie into the main stack. We size the drain to 2" minimum for a kitchen sink with disposal, ensure proper 1/4" per foot slope, and install a cleanout at the base of the vertical drop.

Modern kitchen remodels almost always require gas line work — whether you're replacing an aging range, switching from electric to gas, or upgrading to a commercial-style range that demands more BTUs than your current line can deliver.

Sizing the Gas Line

Gas line sizing is based on BTU demand and line run length. Here's the simplified sizing chart:

Chicago Gas Line Considerations

• Peoples Gas service — residential meter typical capacity is 250,000 – 500,000 BTU total for the home
• Meter upgrade — if total demand exceeds meter capacity (rare but happens with commercial-style ranges, tankless water heaters, and gas dryers), we coordinate a Peoples Gas meter upgrade
• CSST vs. black iron — corrugated stainless steel tubing is allowed in Chicago but must be bonded per NFPA 54; black iron is the traditional and most common material
• Shut-off valve within 6 feet of appliance, accessible without crawling under cabinets

Leak Testing and Permits

• Chicago DOB Plumbing Permit required for all gas line work
• Air pressure test — 10 PSI for 15 minutes minimum; we typically hold 20 PSI for 1 hour for better documentation
• Electronic leak detection at every joint before final inspection
• Peoples Gas meter relight may be required after work

Cost Ranges for Gas Work

• Simple gas line extension (10 – 20 feet from existing line): $300 – $700
• New gas line run from meter (30 – 60 feet): $700 – $1,800
• Line upsizing from 1/2" to 3/4" or 1" (full run): $1,200 – $3,000
• Meter upgrade coordination with Peoples Gas: $500 – $1,500

Chicago's housing stock creates specific plumbing challenges that most generic remodel guides don't address.

Pre-1960 Galvanized Supply Pipes

Most Chicago homes built before 1960 have galvanized steel supply pipes that have lost 40 – 70% of their internal diameter to corrosion. If we see galvanized during demo, we strongly recommend replacing the runs to the kitchen during the remodel. This costs 30 – 50% less than doing it later, and it prevents the aggravation of reduced water flow to a newly remodeled kitchen.

Cast Iron Drain Stacks

Many Chicago kitchens drain into cast iron stacks that are 50 – 100 years old. When these fail, they fail spectacularly — rust bloom on the exterior, pinhole leaks, horizontal cracks. If your cast iron looks questionable during demo, we recommend replacing the affected section with PVC. See our drain replacement page for more.

Lead Soldered Copper

Copper supply lines installed before 1986 may have lead solder at every joint. For a kitchen (where water is consumed), we strongly recommend replacing all lead-soldered copper with modern lead-free solder or PEX.

Knob-and-Tube Electrical in Kitchens

Not plumbing, but worth mentioning — Chicago kitchens renovated before 1960 often have knob-and-tube wiring that's incompatible with modern GFCI-protected circuits. We coordinate with your electrician when we find it during demo.

Narrow Galley Kitchens in 2-Flats

Chicago two-flats, three-flats, and courtyard buildings often have narrow galley kitchens that make some modern layouts impossible. We help design around constraints, often using slim-profile sinks, pot fillers, and compact dishwashers to maximize usability.

High-Rise Kitchens

Condos and apartments present different challenges:

• Building plumbing risers constrain what's possible (can't easily relocate drains)
• HOA or condo board approval often required for major plumbing changes
• Limited work hours for building courtesy (typically 8 AM – 5 PM weekdays)
• Building inspector plus DOB inspector coordination

Here's how we work through a typical kitchen remodel from first visit to final inspection.

Phase 1: Pre-Demo Walkthrough (Week 1)

• On-site consultation with you and your GC or designer
• Review blueprints, mechanical drawings, and appliance specs
• Identify any hidden issues (galvanized pipes, old cast iron, undersized gas lines)
• Provide a written scope with line-item pricing
• Coordinate with cabinet and countertop vendors on timing

Phase 2: Permit (Week 1 – 2)

• Pull Chicago DOB plumbing permit
• Pull gas permit if applicable
• Schedule rough-in inspection target date

Phase 3: Demo Coordination (Week 2)

• Arrive at demo start: safely cap existing supply lines, gas lines, and drains
• Shut off water to the kitchen and drain lines
• Remove old fixtures for disposal
• Assess exposed pipes once walls are open

Phase 4: Rough-In (Week 2 – 3)

• Run new supply lines to every fixture and appliance location
• Run new drain and vent lines
• Run new gas line (or upsize existing)
• Pressure test (water: 100 PSI for 15 minutes; gas: 10 – 20 PSI for 15+ minutes)
• Rough-in inspection by Chicago DOB — must pass before walls close

Phase 5: Waiting for Other Trades (Weeks 3 – 6)

• Drywall, tile, cabinets, and countertops go in
• We return for touch-ups if other trades need minor plumbing coordination

Phase 6: Finish Plumbing (Week 6 – 8)

• Install main sink and faucet
• Install prep sink and faucet (if applicable)
• Install dishwasher with supply, drain, and air gap
• Install disposal
• Connect ice maker line
• Install pot filler
• Install under-sink filtration or instant hot water dispenser
• Connect gas range with flex connector
• Final inspection by Chicago DOB

Phase 7: Check-Out and Warranty

• Run every fixture and appliance through a full cycle
• Check all joints for leaks
• Provide written warranty (2 years on labor, manufacturer warranty on parts)
• Provide inspection sign-off paperwork for your records

Typical total plumbing time on-site: 4 – 8 days spread over 4 – 8 weeks depending on scope and other-trade scheduling.