Shower Installation & Repair in Chicago, IL

Different shower types require different plumbing approaches. Here's the breakdown by category.

Standard Alcove Shower (Most Common)

• Three-wall configuration — tile or prefab walls with a shower pan below and a ceiling or open top
• Single pressure-balancing valve with spout and/or handheld
• Standard 2" drain with P-trap and proper vent
• Plumbing cost range: $800 – $2,500 for rough-in and finish

Walk-In Shower (No Curb or Low Curb)

• Curbless — floor slopes gently to a linear drain, often with a full glass panel (no door)
• Low-curb — 2" – 4" curb with barrier-free design
• Linear drain — long narrow drain at the wall or center
• Reinforced waterproofing — Schluter Kerdi membrane system, PVC pan liner, or hot-mopped asphalt pan
• Plumbing cost range: $2,000 – $5,000 for rough-in and finish

Tub-to-Shower Conversion

• Remove tub and relocate drain — tub drains are at one end; shower drains are centered
• New valve installation with anti-scald pressure-balancing or thermostatic
• Wall framing adjustments for proper shower dimensions (min 30" × 30" per code)
• Waterproofed pan — most common failure point if not done properly
• Plumbing cost range: $2,500 – $5,500

Custom Multi-Head / Luxury Shower

• Main rain head on the ceiling
• Hand shower on slide bar
• Three or more body sprays on the wall
• Thermostatic mixing valve with diverters for each head
• Upsized supply lines (3/4" from the water heater) to prevent pressure drop
• Plumbing cost range: $3,500 – $8,500

Steam Shower

• Steam generator (typically 7 – 12 kW) wired to a 240V circuit
• Vapor-proof door and ceiling — sealed enclosure required
• Steam head plumbed into the shower
• Floor drain with ceiling vent
• Controls for temperature, time, aromatherapy
• Plumbing cost range: $4,500 – $12,000 plus $1,500 – $3,500 for steam generator

Prefab (Fiberglass or Acrylic) Shower Unit

• One-piece or three-piece unit — common in basements, additions, and budget remodels
• Standard drain location in the unit floor pan
• Simpler installation — no tile, no waterproofing membrane
• Plumbing cost range: $800 – $2,000

Chicago's shower code requirements are stricter than many markets, and improper installation can create serious safety issues and code violations.

Anti-Scald Valve Requirement (Since 1994)

Illinois Plumbing Code (77 Ill. Adm. Code 890) requires every tub/shower valve installed since 1994 to be either:

• Pressure-balancing — detects pressure drops on hot or cold and auto-adjusts
• Thermostatic mixing — maintains set temperature regardless of supply pressure
• Combination pressure-balancing + thermostatic

The max allowable output temperature is 120°F (some require 115°F). Non-compliant valves installed in older Chicago homes create legal liability for the homeowner if a scald injury occurs.

Shower Size Minimums

• Minimum shower stall size: 30" × 30" interior dimension
• Doorway minimum: 22" clear opening
• Curbless showers require proper sloping (1/4" per foot minimum) and linear drain sizing

Waterproofing Requirements

• Pan liner required under tile (PVC, hot-mopped asphalt, or CPE membrane)
• Wall waterproofing (Kerdi, RedGard, or equivalent) behind tile in wet areas
• Pre-slope the pan with a minimum 1/4" per foot slope to the drain
• Inspection before tile goes over the waterproofing

Venting

• Every shower drain needs a proper vent (2" minimum)
• Can't tie into a bathroom sink drain without separate venting

Valve Accessibility

• Access panel required if valve is mounted against a wall without tub access
• Shut-offs recommended (not required) at each valve

Chicago DOB Permit

• Required for new shower installations, tub-to-shower conversions, valve replacements that require wall work
• NOT required for cartridge-only swaps or trim kit replacements
• Permit fees: $100 – $400 depending on scope

Tub-to-shower is our most popular project — and there's a specific sequence that separates pro-quality work from "first sign of trouble in 2 years" work.

Step 1: Demo and Access

• Turn off water to the bathroom
• Remove tub spout, showerhead, and valve trim
• Remove tile to expose wall framing behind the tub
• Remove tub — disconnect drain, overflow, and supply connections
• Haul away tub and debris

Step 2: Assess Hidden Conditions

• Subfloor condition — tub drains often leak slowly for years; look for rot
• Wall framing — check for water damage, mold, termite activity
• Existing supply lines — if galvanized or lead-soldered copper, replace now
• Drain line — check tub drain P-trap and venting; many old installs are non-compliant

Step 3: Drain Relocation

• Tub drain is at the foot of the tub; shower drain is centered in the pan
• Cut old drain line back to the vented stack
• Install new drain line routed to the shower pan location
• Install new P-trap with proper venting
• Check slope (1/4" per foot minimum)

Step 4: Supply Line Updates

• Shower valves are mounted higher than tub valves (typically 48" from floor vs. 12" for tub)
• Extend hot/cold supply lines up to the new valve location
• Install new anti-scald pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve body
• Run supply up to rain head or showerhead location
• Pressure test at 100 PSI for 15 minutes

Step 5: Framing and Blocking

• Add blocking at shower valve, tub spout (if used), grab bars, and any body sprays
• Verify shower area meets 30" × 30" minimum
• Frame curb or prep for curbless installation

Step 6: Waterproofing (Critical)

• Install pre-slope with dry-pack mortar at 1/4" per foot slope to drain
• Install pan liner (PVC, CPE, or hot-mopped asphalt) — 4" up walls, 8" – 12" at curb
• Install wall waterproofing membrane (Kerdi, RedGard, etc.)
• Inspection before tile — this is where skipping ahead creates leaks in 3 – 5 years

Step 7: Rough-In Inspection

• Chicago DOB rough-in inspection before tile
• Inspector verifies code-compliant valve, drain, venting, supply

Step 8: Tile-Setter Work (Not Our Scope)

• Your tile contractor sets tile over the waterproofing
• We return after tile is complete

Step 9: Finish Plumbing

• Install showerhead, valve trim, hand shower, body sprays
• Install shower door (often subcontracted)
• Final water test — run shower for 10 – 15 minutes, check for leaks

Typical Timeline

• Day 1: Demo and access
• Day 2: Drain relocation, supply updates, rough-in
• Day 3: Inspection, waterproofing (we do), rest of framing
• Days 4 – 10: Tile work (not our scope)
• Day 11: Finish plumbing, final test

Not every shower problem requires a full rebuild. We repair common issues without tearing out tile.

Dripping Showerhead (Most Common Repair)

• Cause: worn cartridge in the valve body
• Fix: replace cartridge (keeps valve body and trim; just swaps the internal cartridge)
• Cost: $150 – $350 depending on brand
• Time: 45 minutes typical

Low Water Pressure

• Cause: clogged showerhead (mineral buildup), worn cartridge, supply line restriction
• Fix: clean or replace showerhead first (easy); if persists, replace cartridge; if still bad, investigate supply line
• Cost: $75 – $400

Temperature Fluctuations (Scalding or Cold Shocks)

• Cause: failing pressure-balancing or thermostatic cartridge
• Fix: replace cartridge with OEM part
• Cost: $200 – $450

Shower Handle Stiff or Loose

• Cause: worn cartridge, broken handle hub, corroded stem
• Fix: replace cartridge or trim kit
• Cost: $100 – $350

Leaking Behind the Wall

• Cause: failed valve body, corroded supply connection, failed pan liner
• Fix: open access panel or cut drywall; replace failed component
• Cost: $350 – $1,200 depending on access and cause

Slow Drain

• Cause: hair and soap scum buildup
• Fix: snake drain, clean P-trap
• Cost: $150 – $300
• See drain cleaning page for more

Shower Valve Upgrade (Anti-Scald)

• Reason: older home with pre-1994 non-compliant valve
• Fix: replace entire valve body with modern pressure-balancing or thermostatic
• Cost: $600 – $1,400 (requires wall access, may need tile repair)

Custom Multi-Head Valve Repair

• Cause: diverter failure, thermostatic valve failure, body spray failure
• Fix: diagnose specific failed component; replace cartridge or internal parts
• Cost: $300 – $900

Grout and Caulk (Not Plumbing, But Related)

• Failed grout or caulk lets water into the wall cavity
• Often misdiagnosed as a "plumbing leak"
• Repair is a tile contractor's scope, not plumbing