Water Heater Repair in Arlington Heights, IL

No Hot Water — Failed thermocouple, pilot light issues (gas), failed heating element (electric), tripped reset button, or gas valve failure. We diagnose the specific cause and carry common replacement parts for same-day repair.

Not Enough Hot Water — Broken dip tube (cold water mixes with hot), sediment buildup reducing tank capacity, undersized unit for household demand, or failing lower heating element (electric). We determine whether repair or replacement is the better investment.

Water Too Hot — Malfunctioning thermostat or stuck gas valve. This is a safety concern — water above 120°F can cause scalding. We adjust or replace the thermostat and verify safe operation.

Leaking Water Heater — Leaks from the T&P relief valve (often caused by thermal expansion or excessive pressure), leaking supply connections, or a corroded tank bottom. Tank leaks from corrosion require replacement — the tank cannot be repaired.

Strange Noises — Popping, rumbling, or banging sounds indicate sediment buildup. Flushing the tank often resolves this. Screeching or whining may indicate a partially closed valve.

Rusty or Discolored Hot Water — Deteriorating anode rod or corroding tank interior. If caught early, replacing the anode rod can extend tank life. If the tank itself is corroding, replacement is needed.

Pilot Light Won't Stay Lit — Failed thermocouple, dirty pilot orifice, or drafting issues. We clean or replace components and verify safe ignition.

We help you make the right decision based on age, condition, and repair cost:

Repair makes sense when:

• The unit is less than 8 years old
• The repair cost is under 50% of replacement cost
• The issue is a component failure (thermocouple, element, thermostat, dip tube)
• The tank is not leaking from the bottom

Replacement makes sense when:

• The unit is 10+ years old
• The tank is leaking from the bottom (internal corrosion)
• You've had multiple repair calls in the past 2 years
• The unit can't meet your household's hot water demand
• Energy costs are notably high due to inefficiency

We always explain both options with honest cost comparisons.

Thermocouple Replacement — $100–$200 Pilot Assembly Replacement — $150–$300 Heating Element Replacement (electric) — $150–$300 Thermostat Replacement — $150–$300 Dip Tube Replacement — $150–$300 T&P Relief Valve Replacement — $100–$250 Gas Valve Replacement — $300–$600 Anode Rod Replacement — $100–$250 Tank Flush (sediment removal) — $100–$200

All repair estimates are provided before work begins. If the diagnosis reveals replacement is the better option, the diagnostic fee is applied toward the installation cost.